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Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Spaghetti Alla Carbonara


Incredible! As soon as I published the recipe of the 'Amatriciana', millions of readers asked me to post another one of my favorites! Here is the one for 'Spaghetti Alla Carbonara'!


Ingredients:

  • 1 pound dry spaghetti (Barilla or De Cecco)
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4 ounces pancetta or slab bacon sliced into small strips
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving
  • Freshly ground black pepper

  • Directions:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the pasta and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until tender yet firm (as they say in Italian "al dente.") Drain the pasta well, reserving 1/2 cup of the starchy cooking water to use in the sauce if you wish.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a deep skillet over medium flame. Add the pancetta and saute for about 3 minutes, until the bacon is crisp and the fat is rendered.  
Add the hot, drained spaghetti to the pan and toss for 2 minutes to coat the strands in the bacon fat. Beat the eggs and Parmesan together in a mixing bowl, stirring well to prevent lumps. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the egg/cheese mixture into the pasta, whisking quickly until the eggs thicken, but do not scramble (this is done off the heat to ensure this does not happen.) Thin out the sauce with a bit of the reserved pasta water if necessary, until it reaches the desired consistency. Season the carbonara with freshly ground black pepper and taste for salt. Mound the spaghetti carbonara into warm serving bowls and pass more cheese around the table. 
Buon Appetito and.... while cooking, don't answer the phone!

Sunday, March 11, 2012

My Favorite Recipe


Some of my readers asked me about my favorite recipe and so I decided to take a break from 'traveling' and sit at my table to eat my favorite pasta dish:
Bucatini all’Amatriciana

This typically Roman pasta dish was traditionally made with guanciale, but since that ingredient used to be very hard to find outside of Italy, and the Lazio region in particular, pancetta has become a common substitute. Guanciale can now be found at certain specialty food stores here in America. While you can still make a great Amatriciana with pancetta, if you are able to find guanciale, you should try using it at least once. Made from cured pork jowl, guanciale is softer and has a higher ratio of fat than pancetta, resulting in a richer sauce. That being said, with either ingredient it is still my favorite pasta dish. Actually, I sometimes use Pork & Bacon Ends & Pieces that I buy at the local Ranch Direct store where I live. It is lightly smoked and gives the sauce a very unique flavor. So no need to get too caught up in being “traditional”.

Prep time: 10 min | Cook time: 40 min | Total time: 50 min
Serves 4
2 tblsp of olive oil
1/4 of a pound pancetta or guanciale, chopped
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1/4 teaspoon of red pepper flakes
1 28 oz can of imported Italian tomatoes
salt to taste
1 pound of Bucatini pasta (I suggest De Cecco if available in your area)
1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1.      Heat olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and cook, stirring often, until goldenbrown, about 10 minutes. Add the onion and saute until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and saute until garlic is golden, about 1 minute longer.
2.      Crush tomatoes and add with juices to pan. Add salt pepper and a little water. Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, about 15 to 20 minutes.
3.      While the sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the bucatini. Cook uncovered over high heat until al dente.
4.      Drain the pasta, then add the pasta and 1/4 cup of the Pecorino Pomano to the sauce in the saucepan and toss well. Transfer to warm serving plates and serve immediately, with the remaining Pecorino Romano on the side.
Let me know what you think. Buon Appetito!

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

The Centovalli Railway Experience



While visiting the North of Italy you may get fascinated by the beauty of our mountains, the Alps, and you may want to do something special. Here is a tip for something unforgettable and definitely affordable to most of us: take a trip to Lake Maggiore or to the surrounding region; take a train to Domodossola and buy a ticket for the Centovalli railway. Here I am giving you directions on what to do and where to go:

From the Italian website:

CENTOVALLI RAILWAY "VIGEZZINA"

By 1923 this narrow-gauge railway runs between the towns of Domodossola (Italy) and Locarno, (Switzerland).

The railway winds through the Vigezzo Valley, Italy, and the Centovalli in Ticino, in an area of high environmental value and landscape made of green valleys and deep gorges carved by streams, and quiet Alpine pastures and dizzying bridges.

Individual tickets or special fares for groups are available: one-way travel from Domodossola to Locarno or vice versa and round-trip travel.

The one-way trip, from a Terminal to another, requires a little less than two hours. It is possible to make a stop along the way for lunch and a visit to the surrounding area.

For groups, booking is mandatory.

For timetables: check out the tab in the company website.

For the Tour by train + Ferry: see the special section “Lago Maggiore Express”.


I did this with my wife - train to Locarno and return by ferry to Domodossola - and we really enjoyed the experience.

For quotes and reservations (only pre groups of at least 20 participants): claudia@lagomaggioretour.com

From the Swiss Railway website:

Experience a spectacular train journey through 100 valleys with the Centovalli railway.

The Centovalli railway is part of the shortest possible connection between the Valais and Ticino and travels from Domodossola to Locarno in just less than two hours. The nearly 60-kilometre narrow gauge track takes you through picturesque valleys, deep ravines, chestnut forests and vineyards. And from the individual stops, a variety of hikes and excursions offer fascinating opportunities to explore the region and its idyllic villages.

Benefit now: This offer is available from 1 December 2011 to 31 March 2012 as a fixed price offer starting from CHF 49. First come, first served!

This can be a unique experience for everybody, either you love the mountains or the lake, or both. It is absolutely inexpensive and not difficult. It takes the whole day but you can decide to spend few hours in the beautiful town of Locarno. Here you can take a walk to the marina where all the boats are docked and have a sack lunch on a bench. Don't forget your camera because the surroundings are absolutely spectacular!

Monday, February 13, 2012

Few Tips For Your Trip To Italy


Here are a few steps to follow to organize a trip to Italy without resorting to travel agencies.

1) Choose the destination and type the place to visit. This is the first and most important thing to do: If you choose a city of art you will spend days walking to see monuments and museums; if you choose a place along the coast then you will prefer to lay down on a beach; finally, if you choose a spa then the holiday will have a different twist.

2) Decide how you will reach the place. By rental car, train or plane.
· By car: check the website viamichelin.it. Inserting the point of departure and arrival, the site will search for you the best route to destination. You can customize your search by entering the type of fuel (gasoline or diesel) you will fill up the tank of your car with; by asking for the shortest or cheapest way to destination, by avoiding or preferring highways, ... The site will also give you the cost of toll roads and fuel. It's a great way to get information for all motorists.
· By train: check the Italian railways website (Trenitalia). If you want to travel by train, you can book and purchase your tickets in advance on their website. You can also make reservation for your seats. You can also find some interesting deals such as discounts from 30 to 15%. If you need information about the arrival or departure track or you need to check European trains, then try the German railways site (Die Bahn). You can book tickets directly online by paying with your credit card and avoiding the line.  
· By plane: check volagratis.it. Enter the departure and arrival locations, the time and number of passengers and the site will give you a list of available and cheapest flights and fares. For bookings, however, go directly to the airline's site and buy your tickets with your credit card. Remember, the sooner you make a reservation the better discounts will be available.

Now that you know how to get to destination, you need to find a place to stay.

3) Find a place to sleep. Also in this case check websites such as expedia.it or venere.com. You can get a list of hotels sorted by price; refine your search by picking the one as close as possible to the place where you will be hanging. Use these engines to draw up a list of hotels that look perfect for your needs, but don't book with them. Go directly to the hotel site if available. Often by paying directly and in advance you can find discounted rooms up to 80% compared to standard fare!

4) Other things to check. Search the internet for local transportation fares; how much is the daily, weekly or monthly pass to buses, metro or light trains lines. You may find discount cards to travel into town. Later, you might want to decide what you want to see and do: museums, monuments, landscapes. Check the cities', town’s, region’s websites for special discounts to places to visit. Same thing to find places to eat good and cheap. You can look for local restaurants at ilmangione.it. Here you can review restaurants where you have been and read other people’s comments about restaurants where you want to go. There is also a space to search for restaurants by location, type of cuisine, time and prices. Download a map of the city and place dots and marks with a pen by the places to see: you will be able to move faster and not to miss your favorite places. Remember, asking locals is the best way to find places and restaurants, especially if you manage to speak some words of Italian. If you do not speak any words or you are too shy to try, use a pen and a piece of paper with the name of the restaurant and say the magic words, “non caro, ma buono” (not expensive but good) and voila’ you have your information.   

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Just A Remind To The Few.......

To my few readers,

I would like to invite you to participate to my blog with comments, notes, pictures, personal stories, travel experiences to Italy. Just let me know what you want to post and I will be more than happy to do it for you.

You can also compromise yourself by becoming one of my followers! It will not make you Italian but it will make 'me' happy.

Do You Want To Go To Rome?

Friday, February 3, 2012

The Talking Statues in Rome


Originally located in different places in the city of Rome, the so-called talking statues are perhaps one of the best expressions of that genuine roman soul, naturally inclined to satire and bearing an irreverent attitude towards the power and its ostentation. Their story started during the Papal era, when the people began to hang libels at the neck of these satirical sculptures.

If today the famous Pasquino is the only survivor, once the list was longer and included statues that have often given their names to the places in which they were found (this is the case of Piazza di Pasquino or Via del Babuino). The other statues are Marforio in the courtyard of the Capitoline Museum, Madama Lucrezia in Piazza San Marco, the Abate Luigi in Piazza Vidoni, the Facchino in Via Lata, and the Babuino in Via del Babuino.

Our Pasquino is a statue of the Hellenistic period (dating back to the 3rd century BC), and what remains of it is actually a fragment of two bodies, one of which probably depicting a Greek Warrior, possibly Menelaus, supporting the body of the dying Patroclus. It seems that originally the statue, discovered in 1501 as a result of nearby excavations, was on display in the stadium of Domitian, i.e. the present Piazza Navona. It was eventually moved to the current location, that is the old Piazza di Parione (which is also the name of that district) and that today is known as Piazza di Pasquino.

 

The name of the statue is as mysterious as its origins and so is what it represents. There are different tales about and the most accredited tells that the name Pasquino was that of a craftsman of Rione Parione (a Barber or a tailor or a shoemaker), famous for his satirical vein. According to others it is that of a restaurateur who was exhibiting his own verses in that square. Finally, other versions speak of teachers of Latin grammar and characters from the Boccaccio’s Decameron. I like to think that a statue so popular, that gave voice to the Roman people so cleverly, took its name from one of the most humble member of the community, a shopkeeper, an artisan or a restaurateur addicted to poetry and the mind full of irreverent satire.

The cartels and satirical posters that were hung around the neck of the talking statues began to appear during the so called Papal age as invective, jokes and poems against representatives of the temporal power of the papacy. The Popes were often the target of bitter satires, and more than one Pope tried to have the statue of Pasquino removed, but always advised against doing so by those who knew the Roman people and its possible, uncontrollable reactions in the event of such censorship. At times, guards were placed at night to watch the talking statues but this did not stop anonymous to keep on hanging billboards behind their backs.

Later in history, the statues were often used as a billboard for the "electoral campaigns" during the election of new Popes or as a free space for propaganda against political opponents. The activity of this popular form of communication was momentarily interrupted following the defeat of the papal army and the annexation of Rome to the new Kingdom of Italy. Also in more recent times the people of Rome have seen new actions by Pasquino related to current events, either international or local. Anyhow, the period of "silence" that followed the breach of Porta Pia was never total and sporadic outbreaks would occur to renew one of the traditions that best tell what the Romanesque invective has always meant to the people of Rome.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Free spas: a not-to-be-missed opportunity


Going to the spa (in Italian terme) means wearing only the swimsuits and laying down in hot water, relaxing the muscles and the senses and forgetting all the problems. In Italy, there are hundreds of terme that can be used freely without any fee to pay. Unless you want to use the nearby spa facilities which offer paid services to all of those who suffer from various diseases and can get greater benefit by using specialized professionals. Also, you may want to pay a ticket if you prefer to use a dressing room to change and a locker where to leave your clothes, or eat at the restaurant.  


Wellness and health thanks to the terme

No region in Italy, from North to South, is without the terme, many of them absolutely free. The benefits of bathing in these waters are known since antiquity and according to their chemical composition they can serve as a remedy for disorders of the digestive and respiratory systems, the joints and other parts of the human body, to the extent of being considered by many people miraculous.

Below some of the best free spas in the Peninsula:

Bormio
In the heart of the province of Sondrio are the Terme di Bormio. Its waters flow out at about 1,300 meters of elevation and reach temperatures of 41 degrees. Nearby is the Letto dell’Adda and a whole range of facilities which offer various rental services. Its waters contain bicarbonate and are ideal for sports therapies and water therapy. You can also enjoy skiing in many resorts in the surrounding areas. 


Saturnia
In the province of Grosseto, the Terme di Saturnia offer their mineral springs at a temperature of 37 degrees. Their healing properties are perfect for skin diseases, the respiratory and digestive systems. The baths can be taken in a series of swimming pools located at different altitude levels and connected by small waterfalls. Nearby, there are also some largest waterfalls always packed with visitors, day and night. Many places in Maremma offer local delicacies and fascinating medieval castles to visit.

Terme Segestane
Located in Sicily, in the province of Trapani, they offer a very fascinating atmosphere, almost "extraterrestrial", due to the fluffy hot fumes coming out from cracks in the ground. The water temperature is around 44 degrees and offers the right mix of substances to relieve rheumatic pains and treating diseases that affect the respiratory system. Famous is also the water of the Cave della Regina, a large natural pool formed by thousands of years of natural erosion. Beautiful is the surrounding landscape with the Greek temple of the 3rd century BC and the natural reserve of the Zingaro overlooking the sea with its 1600 hectares of valuable local flora.

The undeniable benefits of the spas
Free spas offer the possibility to people who cannot afford to pay a fee or the cost of facilities, to enjoy the remarkable healing effects of these waters. Situated everywhere throughout Italy, spas are a unique opportunity to treat diseases and pains affecting many parts of our body. In addition, the relaxing effect of the waters, the surrounding landscapes, and the typical food of the different regions are a further stimulus for taking a bath in a spa at the earliest opportunity.

Going To Spoleto?

Spoleto is a beautiful town of about 38,000 people on the slopes of a sacred mountain in the Apennines. It is located in the region of Umbria, 39 miles SE of Perugia and 78 miles N of Rome. Spoleto has been inhabited since the Bronze Age. As a Roman town in the 3rd century BC, it fought off the fierce invader Hannibal. Strategically situated on the ancient Via Flaminia from Rome to Ravenna, Spoleto became the stronghold of many rulers during the Dark Ages. The Lombards made it the capital of their empire in the 8th century; the duke they installed here governed most of central Italy. At the turn of the 12th century, Spoleto fell into papal hands, and its twilight began. Today's Spoleto has two levels: the Lower Town, extensively rebuilt after World War II; and the well-preserved medieval Upper Town. Spoleto contains a number of ancient Roman and medieval sacred sites - in addition to the Duomo, with Filippo Lippi's last fresco cycle, there are many Romanesque churches and a Roman theater, now restored and once again in use.

If you are on a budget, I suggest my friend Lucia's B&B: http://www.bblacasadegliartisti.it/en/

From her leaflet: The “Casa degli Artisti”, located in an historical building in the heart of the ancient town, is in the ideal position for those who want to walk through the very rich cultural heritage of the town, or who prefers walking in the nature, and as well for those who want to taste the good cuisine, just relax enjoy the and entertainment.


Exploiting the huge offer of bars and meeting points of the surrounding streets.

The atmosphere is comfortable: the hostess has long experience in hotel management therefore very professional, competent and able to speak many languages.

She will always be available to ensure a comfortable and nice stay for any needs, supported by any kind of interesting suggestion and studied in particular for any request.

Fettuccine Alfredo.... all'italiana!



The recipe is simple: cook fettuccini at least twenty minutes, literally drown them in cream and then add to taste mushrooms, garlic and Parmesan cheese …Anywhere in the United States you are offered this "Italian" dish that is not Italian! That is, in a nutshell, the most famous Italian dish in America, in Italy … does not exist! Or rather, it exists but the story is a little different! Let's do a bit of clarity. 


The legend says that the dish was invented by some Di Lelio at his restaurant Alfredo in 1914 as a variation of fettuccine al burro (fettuccini with butter). He only added butter twice, before and after fettuccini were ready to be served, creating a soft creamy mixture.  The legend goes on with Di Lelio's restaurant being visited by actors Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks who fell in love with the fettuccine al burro on their honeymoon in 1927. They eventually gave him a golden fork and spoon along with a photo of them eating in his restaurant. ... Eventually, Di Lelio sold the restaurant which still exists in the historical center of Rome and is known as Alfredo alla Scrofa!


By the way, fettuccine and not fettuccini! For those who love Macaroni & Cheese - who does not in the USA? – if you want to impress your friends and are lucky enough to find fresh Ricotta cheese do the following: cook the fettuccine al dente (at the bite); drain well and add a mixture of butter, fresh Ricotta, pepper and, why not, Parmiggiano (yes, this would be Parmesan cheese!). The Ricotta cheese is a fresh, creamy and yummy type of cheese that is available only at some expensive food store on the East Coast or, at very high price, on the Internet. If you happen to travel to Italy, it is one of the most common comfort food available on the market. Please, don’t call it anything else than Fettuccine con la Ricotta


Buon appetito!

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Itineraries: Medieval Cloisters in Rome


The majority of tourists from around the world arrive with their guides, city maps and full of information downloaded from the internet.

Places to visit are the usual Colosseum, Vatican, Trevi Fountain, etc., but the city of Rome is not all there, forbid them.

This time I would suggest different destinations, less known, but certainly most fascinating: the medieval cloisters. Since you'll also get the Colosseum, the Vatican, and other famous places to visit, for now I suggest the following cloister: the one inside the Basilica dei Santissimi Quattro Coronati.

Places of peace and meditation, the cloister is a heavenly symbol. You will visit two of the most beautiful and ancient cloisters in Rome, hidden in the heart the Basilica dei Santissimi Quattro Coronati. 

Cloister of the Basilica of SS. Quattro Coronati

The Basilica of SS. Quattro Coronati in the Celio area, is one of the most important medieval Basilicas of Rome. The Church takes its title from four Roman soldiers martyred under the Emperor Diocletian. The story is narrated in the "Golden legend" of Jacopo Da Varagine: «the Quattro Coronati were Severo, Severino, Carpoforo, Victoriano; by order of Diocletian were beaten until they were dead. For a long time their names remained unknown, but were later revealed by the Lord and their names were listed together with those of five other martyrs: Claudio, Nicostrato, Sinforiano and Simplicio, who were martyred two years after the Quattro Coronati.

The Church is located on an ancient Roman domus, which had a large absided hall turned into Church between the 4th and 5th century. It is mentioned under its present name in 595 a.d. Under the papacy of Leo IV the Church was transformed into a magnificent three-aisled basilica, preceded by a portico on which stands the Bell Tower, today one of the oldest towers left in Rome. The building suffered severe damage during the Norman sack of 1084; Pope Pasquale II rebuilt it in 1110 in smaller size, with three naves obtained from the original nave. In 1138, the Church was entrusted to the Benedictine monks, who held it until the sec. XV; under them were built the monastery (late sec. XII), the cloister (secs. XIII) and the chapel of S. Silvestro (1246). In 1521 the church passed under the Camaldolesi and later, from 1560 was entrusted to the Augustinian Sisters who still hold it. The complex underwent extensive restoration, especially around 1630, when the church was frescoed and decorated again. In 1912-1914 Antonio Muñoz restored the whole complex according to the original medieval style. The last intervention dates back to 2004, when the beautiful 13th century cloister was returned to the medieval splendor.

The Interior of the Church shows, along the outer perimeter, the columns of the ancient basilica, while those of the present church are of granite, with simple capitals. The floor is from the 12th century, in opus alexandrinum. In the aisles are preserved remains of frescoes from the 12th century; in particular, on the left, you find the altar of S. Sebastiano. From this same aisle you will get to the cloister (photo), dating from the 13th century, one of the most beautiful of Rome despite being rather bare of decorations. Author of the cloister was probably a Roman marble master, Pietro de Maria, who erected also the cloister of the Abbey of Sassovivo.

I must warn you that it is preferable not to make this visits on Saturday or Sunday because of religious services (masses, baptisms, weddings, etc.) in the churches visited. In addition, access to churches is subjected to a strict regulation of dress and I suggest women to bring a shawl in case of need, and men to avoid shorts.


What Makes You Italian?


In 15 years as an Italian resident in the USA, I have met thousands of Americans claiming to be Italian. All it takes is to have some far relatives in their family who emigrated to the USA long time ago and, voila’, it makes them Italian. Sorry, but it is not that simple! First, you are Italian only if you were born and raised in Italy, fed with Italian food every single day, and you studied in Italian schools for most of your life.

In my humble opinion a society or a human society is a group of people related to each other through original and unique relations or a large social grouping that shares the same geographical or virtual territory and that are subject to the same political authority, cultural expectations, and philosophic values. What makes you American cannot make you Italian, and viceversa.

There are too many common places on what it is and what it is not Italian, and it really bothers me when in many Americans’ imagination Tony Soprano, grubbing down his gullet without regard to time, temperature or taste, is believed to be Italian. Not to mention the boys and girls from New Jersey Beach, are those Italians, too?

I do not mean to offend anyone and I never thought that I own the Coliseum because I was born in Rome. This belongs to the whole human society. I believe that people everywhere in the world can prepare and eat authentic Italian food, learn and speak a perfect Italian, and travel and live in Italy, as far as they stop labeling as  Italian things that Italian are not. Have anyone of you ever ordered Chicken Parmesan or Fettuccini Alfredo in any restaurant in Italy? You should ask my wife when we first met in Rome. I will tell you the story another time.

On the other end, to prepare and cook authentic Italian recipes does not require any Italian citizenship, passport or special permission. Most of the Italian cuisine, as I will eventually write about, is based on simple, basic recipes which may date far back in history. Many of those recipes have eventually evolved and maintained the original flavor and texture through time. Provided that you find the basic ingredients, anyone can cook anywhere in the world authentic Italian food.

Buon appetito!


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